Does the EZBoard Need Heatsinks on the Drivers?
- No. Because we properly design our boards unlike the Chinese.
- They do not need heatsinks and TMC specifically states that there are to be NO heatsinks on their drivers since they sink heat through the PCB. Our board is 4 layers with 2oz copper on EVERY layer.
- Cheap chinese boards use 2 layers (some with 1oz and some with 2 oz) or 4 layers with 2oz only sometimes on the outer layers (inners are only 0.5oz).
- Our PCBs are custom built for our boards to our spec, its more expensive but it’s what works correctly.
- Any time you see a Trinamic board with heatsinks on the top it’s because the company selling it has no idea what they are doing with proper design of the boards around these chips.
Firmware Will Not Flash
- The most common issue when this happens is a faulty SD card. Get a new MicroSD card from a reputable brand (like Sandisk, Samsung, Kingston, Verbatim) and try that before digging into other issues. Don’t go crazy, just get something in the 8GB range. Marlin only has been shown to work reliably with SD cards 32GB or less and you want to format as FAT32.
- Please see our SD Flashing information page here: EZBoard – Flashing Firmware MicroSD Recommendations
Board will not Power Up
- USB Connection – If using ONLY usb to power the board the jumper needs to be moved from REG to USB position. Move it back before installing in a printer. Seeing a TMC CONNECTION ERROR when powered only over USB is normal. For normal operation the jumper must be in the REG position.
- PSU Connection – Check your PSU connections and that the jumper is in the REG position and not the USB position. For normal operation the jumper must be in the REG position.
The EZBoard Restarts when SD is Inserted
- This has been known to happen specifically with the "Netac" brand cards that Creality uses. We are looking into the issue. This is a firmware related issue that will be patched once we isolate the root cause of it.
- Updating to the latest firmware fixes this for most people. Please update to the latest firmware and make sure to clear your EEPROM.
End of print never “completes” (print stops at 99%)
- Fixed in the new Unified 2 Firmware release.
- Please update to the latest firmware
Do I need to power off my printer when working on it?
- This is important as wiring mishaps can happen and damage the board. This includes when you are working on the hotend or doing a nozzle change. If doing a nozzle change heat the hotend up to 240C then cut power to the printer power supply.
- Make sure you do not damage any of the thermistor or heater lines when changing your nozzle. Damaging these lines can cause a short between the wires that will kill the board.
- After working on the hotend check resistances across wires to make sure they are reading correctly and there are no connections between wires where there shouldn’t be connections (like heater power lines to heater thermistor lines).
My E Motor Makes More Noise Than The Others
- The default setup on our board is to set the E motor driver to SpreadCycle mode.
- Trinamic specifically states (and our testing validates this) that for E motors they should be run in SpreadCycle mode and NOT StealthChop so it does not lose steps.
- This mode provides more torque than StealthChop which is what the other drivers are in for quiet printing
- SpreadCycle is still very quiet but you may notice a slight noise coming from the E motor and this is normal
- If you want to get rid of this noise you can enable StealthChop in our firmware to switch the E motor to StealthChop but if you get lost steps you will want to switch back to SpreadCycle mode.
- Remember to reset your EEPROM (initialize in the menu on some firmware versions, or send M502 then M500 to clear and save it via Gcode) for the new changes to take effect
- This is NOT a limitation of our board but just how all the Trinamic drivers are with these technologies in them
Cannot Compile on a Mac Computer
- It is recommended to use our EZFirmware website to compile firmware unless you have to modify code outside of the Configuration.h file, which 99% of people will not need to do at all.
My CR-10S (any size) has 2 fans connected to “VIN” Ports
- These should have the ends cut off and the wires inserted into the “FAN” screw terminal on the board.
- These fans are always on and wiring them to the “FAN” screw terminals will provide them power just like the stock board did.
- These are the internal 50mm fan and rear 40mm fan in the control box.
- The one that goes to the hotend should be connected to the “FAN” screw terminal as well
Can I power a Raspberry Pi board from the 5V pins on the EZBoard?
- No. This will cause damage to the board and blow the 1A fuse for the 5V rail on our board. Do not try to power a Raspberry Pi from your EZBoard.
- If you want to power your Pi from your printer power we have a Pi Direct Wire power adapter board in our shop for under $10 that will do this for you.
Will the EZBoard work with Octoprint?
- Yes. It will work just like the stock control board.
What is the EZBoard Baud Rate?
- The default USB baud rate for the serial interface is set to 115200 just like the Creality stock boards for compatibility with existing slicer setups and other programs you would use with the stock board.
What voltage does the EZBoard work with?
- The EZBoard works on 12-24V DC.
Can I use Marlin 2.0 with the EZBoard if I do not want to use the TH3D Firmware?
- Yes. Our board is in the official Marlin 2.0 release. If you do use Marlin 2.0 instead of our Unified Firmware we will not be able to provide technical support at no charge as our support does not cover this use case.
Can I use a normal 12864LCD with the EZBoard?
- Yes. You will also need the Creality Dual Cable LCD adapter board as well and the SD slot will not function on the LCD itself.
- You will still use the MicroSD slot on our board for your MicroSD card.
My LCD beeps on startup
- This is normal.
- Some machines do this and some do not.